Saddle Shoulder Raglan construction
Saddle Shoulder Raglan: A Beautiful Construction Explained
In the world of knitting, the saddle shoulder raglan stands out for its elegant fit and structured silhouette. It brings together visual interest, technical clarity, and wearable beauty. In my Lumi Cardigan pattern, we explore this construction in detail, step-by-step, allowing you to master the method and create a cardigan that is both timeless and versatile.
Cast-On & Neckline Setup
The Lumi Cardigan begins at the neckline with a provisional cast-on, keeping the back stitches live for a seamless integration of the side band later in the process.
We work flat at this stage and use the short rows technique to build the backlift. This adds height to the back neckline, ensuring a natural fit and preventing the front from riding up.
As we build this structure, we also set the base for our saddle shoulders.
Backlift with short rows
Three Key Sections of the Saddle Shoulder Raglan
1. Shoulder Section (Grey Lines in Diagram)
This section extends outward from the neckline and forms the core of the saddle shape. Here, we aim to reach the full width of the back — from one shoulder tip to the other — ensuring a well-balanced and tailored fit.
Increases are made only on the outer edges of the sleeves, where they meet the front and the back, in every row.
This focused shaping creates the defining lines of the yoke and gives the garment its polished, architectural look.
2. Armhole Shaping (Dark Blue Lines)
Once the saddle shape is formed, the raglan shaping continues downward.
Increases are made along the outer sides of the sleeves only, and these are done in every right-side row.
This step deepens the armhole and gives room for comfortable sleeve movement.
3. Underarm Expansion (Purple Lines)
This is the final raglan shaping section before sleeve and body separation.
Increases are worked on both sides of the raglan lines, again in every right-side row, which ensures enough width for both the sleeves and the body.
Reaching the Separation Point
After completing all three shaping phases and achieving the necessary stitch counts, the yoke is complete.
At this point, stitches for the sleeves are set aside, and knitting continues straight on the main body of the cardigan.
Why This Construction Shines
The saddle shoulder raglan is more than just a technique – it’s a design language. It gives structure, comfort, and incredible styling opportunities. In the Lumi Cardigan, every step is supported by clear instructions, video tutorials, and charts, making it accessible even for beginners who are ready to level up.
Yes, the yoke is the most technical part of the process – but once that’s behind you, the rest of the cardigan is a relaxing, rhythmic knit.
Ready to give it a try? Let the Lumi Cardigan be your guide to discovering the magic of saddle shoulder raglan construction.
